W Burgundy, Chablis, Boudin 2019

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The Boudin domaine is located in La Chapelle-Vaupelteigne, one of the hamlets outside of Chablis proper, just across the Serein river from the 1er Cru vineyard of Fourchaume. The Boudin family farms just over 11 hectares of vineyards in Chablis, including 5 in the premier cru Fourchaume. Run by Francis Boudin, Domaine Boudin is an outpost of artisanal, hand-crafted wine in a region that is dominated by negociants. Francis strives for purity and terroir-expressiveness by eschewing oak. Another distinguishing factor of Boudin’s is the fact that all plantings have come from massal selections of their own Chablis vines rather than re-planting with Chardonnay clones from other areas of Burgundy, a more common practice in the region. Add to that the fact Domaine Boudin has an enviable array of holdings (including the rarest of rare 1er Cru L’Homme Mort, a south facing parcel within Fourchaume).

The entry-level Chablis from Domaine Boudin is one of the great values of the region. Machine-harvesting is rampant in Chablis, as it is a region that is dominated by negociants. At this family-owned domaine, however, every grape is hand-picked, including those for the Chablis AC. The wines are bottled without filtration after fermentation and aging in tank. Gunmetal and oyster shell are the typical aromas here, and the wines are lean and racy on the palate with just enough stone-fruit richness to keep them from being austere.

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